Almost broke my neck yesterday

Was out surfing chest high waves yesterday on the goveller. Pretty much last wave of the session. Got loads of speed as it hit the inside. I don't really have an air game so I just went for a flying kick out.

I always do my kick outs with arms down and head first into the water. So, you know what came next....

For some reason the water was way shallower than I expected, like about 2 feet. So I came down from a good height, head first straight into the sand.

Kind of saw stars and felt a massive jolt through my neck. For a split second I felt complete terror. Wiggled my all extremities and everything was still working. Neck hurt though and was still worried I'd done myself some serious damage.

I know 3 people who've broken their necks surfing. All have made complete recoveries. I don't think any of them did it in quite such a stupid manner though.

After 30+ years of surfing it's quite late to learn a lesson like this. I realise how close I came to a really bad outcome and am so thankful not to be permanently fucked up from one bad decision.