Seeking Opinions after 3 weeks of research: Which Mountaineering Boots Should I Buy?
I’m in a bit of an infinite loop trying to decide on the right mountaineering boots. Here’s how I plan to use them:
- Summer Glacier Traverses: I’ll definitely be using them for summer glacier traverses in the high alpine, such as on Monte Rosa (4600m). These routes won’t be overly technical, but they’ll be long (at least 5-6 hours) and involve some ridge crossings.
- Winter Alpine Adventures: In winter, I engage in lower-altitude alpinism (up to 3500m). However, I also have aspirations to gradually tackle more technical challenges in the coming years—nothing like icefalls, but perhaps some north faces.
I’ve tried over 20 different models (and visited 10+ specialized stores), and I’m currently torn between the following options:
- La Sportiva Nepal Cube GTX: These are quite rigid, heavy, and more restrictive than other models, but still comfortable. I appreciate that despite their technical features, they don’t feel excessive for less technical use.
- LS Aequilibrium: I’ve ruled these out because they’re “too comfortable,” too flexible, and not warm enough in my opinion—I’d consider them more as approaching shoes.
- Scarpa Rebel (entire line, lite, HH, …): Similar to the Aequilibrium, I’ve also discarded these due to negative feedback about their water resistance.
- Scarpa Phantom Tech HD: Surprisingly comfortable and flexible, definitely high-quality and warm. Apparently beating Nepal Cube in every aspect.
- LS G-Tech: (didn’t try yet) but they seem to be in a similar price range and category as the Phantom Tech.
- LS Trango Tower Extreme GTX: (didn’t try yet) I’ve heard great things about these, and they’re reasonably priced. However, I’m unsure if they’ll be warm enough or too specialized for ice climbing.
Cost isn't a problem if the boots are the right fit. Right now, the Trango Tower Extreme boots seem like the best choice. They're versatile and work well with C3 crampons without being too stiff or specialized. But I still need to try them out, and unfortunately, they're hard to find. I might have to order them online, and even then, I'll likely be in a bit of a bind.
I appreciate any insights or recommendations from fellow mountaineers. Let's conquer those peaks together!🏔️